Sunday, 30 January 2011

LucyandBart

LucyandBart is a collaboration between Lucy McRae and Bart Hess and has been described as an instinctual stalking of fashion, architecture, performance and the body. They share a fascination with genetic manipulation and beauty expression. The combination of colours textures and media makes these images true works of art......
Grown on You

Dripping Colour

Germination day 1

Germination day 8





Wednesday, 26 January 2011

YUANYI JEFF LEE FOR MYKROMAG, PARIS ....

BERNHARD WILLHELM MENSWEAR A/W11

Bernhard Willhelm's collection was shown in the Hotel Salomon de Rothschild during Paris fashion week. Using live models the presentation saw them actively wearing the garments, 'posing with bicycles and leaping  about carrying giant umbrellas draped in chiffon'. The sportswear looks with bold colours and graphic prints were mixed with a S&M style. This brought in skin tight garments and packing tape wrapped around the models. Some of the models also had painted faces, a trend that I've started to notice more and more, for example Christopher Shannon's SS11 and Walter Van Beirendonck's AW11 shows.  The overall effect was pretty amazing and also brings up the question of presentations vs. catwalk. I know that catwalks are always deemed the superior, but depending on the collection, sometimes a well thought out presentation can be much more effective. It allows people to spend time analysing the clothes and capturing every details. Particularly in menswear, so much of the painstaking design work is in the detail, can it show its true potential only being showed for 30 seconds? ....







Images courtesy of Dazed Digital

Saturday, 22 January 2011

Mugler AW11

Now this is literally a printed man!
Here is the film released for the Mugler AW11 menswear collection; creative director Nicola Formichetti, shot by Mariano and featuring a debut song by Lady GagaVivanco...what a combination!



shown exclusively on the StyleList.com and Mugler.com

creative director nicola formichetti
musical director lady gaga

WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK- 'Dream the world to wake'

Having suffered lately from a design block, seeing Walter Van Beirendonck’s AW11 collection has given me the needed inspiration. The collection portrays many of the concepts that I’m looking to show in my own graduate collection. It shows the essence of modern menswear; the soft tailoring gives a classic menswear look, but the printed panels and patches give them a new creative flare. He has taken an interesting twist on the tailoring look by having the sides and sleeves open and creating poncho-like garments with jackets. The collection also shows perfectly that bold colours and prints if used correctly can make amazing garments that are wearable too. This is something I feel is very important when using prints in menswear, you can push boundaries and try new things, but when it comes down to it I want someone to want to wear it and not just think its great to look at.
In an interview with Dazed Digital he explains that his inspiration was all about a ‘new kind of shamanism’ and looking into the ‘spiritual world’. The key statements he wanted to incorporate into the collection were, 'Something big is coming' and 'Dream the world to wake'. These words were taken from the essay by Tim Blanks featured in AnOther Man.  The essay was about the Maya dates and how our lives are going in a new direction.
This collection relates to the ideas I’ve been looking at in the Futurists Manifesto. They were looking to create a new menswear look that matched the direction that they felt society should be moving towards. The futurists wanted to make garments that were moving works of art and Beirendonck has created a collection that does just this!

Ponch Jackets show a really interesting silhouette

there is definitely a growing trend in using colour blocks and gradients as seen in my SS11 collection

These show how knitwear can be used to show the prints as well as giving texture to the collection


Embroidered patches and  'hand on heart' detailing give essential design flourishes
Images courtesy of Dazed Digital

Thursday, 20 January 2011

'The Futurists Manifesto for Men's Clothing' ....(pt 2)

DAVIDDAVID....

Looking into the creative use of print in menswear, there’s one name that has always been at the top of my list, DavidDavid (okay so that’s technically two).  His work show geometrics at their finest and his attention to every detail in the prints gives them their signature look.
I’ve had the honour of working with David through my time at university and can’t really stress how much I learned whilst there. His eye for colour is really remarkable and his persistence in achieving a perfect mix clearly pays off when your see the fluidity of the colour palettes. Straight from the words used in the in the Futurists Manifesto; his designs are dynamic, energetic and illuminating. 












Tuesday, 18 January 2011

'The Futurists Manifesto for Men's Clothing' ....(pt 1)

Whilst researching for my own collection I've been looking into 'The Futurists Manifesto for Men's Clothing' Their idea was to create clothes that were wearable works of art, they celebrated speed, machinery, violence youth and industry. Menswear need not be regimented my uniformity, harmony and symmetry- their concept was to create something that was dynamic, aggressive, shocking, energetic and illuminating. 
This bold manifesto is serving as an underlying concept for my own work so whilst i'm still in this key research stage I've been coming across designers that I feel have started to capture these ideas. I'll be putting up key images that will document the exploration into the depths of menswear. 
The first to be show is recent RCA graduate Bronwen Marshall's MA collection. It focuses on the anonymity and the sameness of bodies when driven by lusty desire. Another bold theme, but it has clearly been executed perfectly. There is a great use of colour, mixing bold colour and monocromes; there is also a really interesting use of contrasting textures.










Saturday, 15 January 2011

Chapel Rucksacks....

These great menswear rucksacks have been created by Chapel clothing, a young Cape Town  menswear label. Caleb Pedersen, designer and founder of Chapel, creates clothing and a variety of rucksacks in different colours, patterns, and fabrics. The label produces high quality garments with a modern cut and a simple, wholesome ethic. All materials are sourced locally by bicycle. Although previously only available in stores in South Africa, they are now available online at Need Supply Co





Thursday, 13 January 2011

Tee Shirts

In a bid to create a fund for my final collection to devour, I’ve decided to continue a project that started this summer. The classic concept making and selling t-shirts! The t-shirts will be available in several locations (hopefully) both online and also in various east London markets! Here’s a sample from the first batch of monster creations….



Tuesday, 11 January 2011

V&A....

I've spent the last week solidly confined to my room, in front a computer; the cursor flashing at me and giving me that inpatient look as it waits for me to write the next sentence of my dissertation. Daft in... so now its time to work on the "Final" collection... with so much riding on this body of work, its hard not to feel the pressure. I tell myself two things, (1) This isn't really my last collection, in the grand scheme of things, its is more like my first full collection. and (2) P.M.A- positive mental attitude. So with these I took a well deserved research trip away from the computer to one of London's great treasures, the V&A. Spending time surrounded by the amazing art and design sparked a few light-bulb moments.... although in the beginning stages...here's a few images that you might get a little 'deja vu' with come June....















Saturday, 8 January 2011

Video Inspiration - Norman McLaren

Norman McLaren is Scottish-born Canadian animator, His work creates a very interesting source of inspiration for my final collection prints. He uses simply shapes colour and movement to create such innovative short films.



                                           Synchromy (1971)


                                           created by using an optical film printer


                                           'Dots' (1948)


                                    'Boogie-Doodle' (1948)

 Opening credits read- ' The National Film Board of Canada presents an experimental film by Norman McLaren, made without camera, by drawing directly upon 35mm movie film with an ordinary pen and ink'